WAQF SPA IN NOVI PAZAR
Author: Prof. Hivzo Gološ, PhD, Faculty of Islamic Studies in Novi Pazar • Photo & video: Mirza Hasanefendić
The spa of Novi Pazar consists of a bathroom made of the remains of Roman thermal baths, and another one, built in the late 16th century. The building of the hammam is a simple structure with rectangular basis, the rooms of which are covered by two domes of unequal size, with octagonal tambours. The hammam was built by alternating stone and brick. The interior is divided into two parts: a changing room and a bathroom, with a 1.5meter deep octagonal pool in the middle. The pool is surrounded by four spaces covered with semicircular vaults. A small dome, which was most likely renewed in the 19th century, rises above the changing room.
Above the entrance to the hammam there is a 26x40 cm plate, with the carved inscription in verses, in Turkish, inscribed in a decorative Arabic script, which can be translated as follows:
Those who have seen the East and the West, the land and the sea, said: “Nowhere in the world have we seen such thermal baths (kapluče).” Having seen it, one among them made a summary chronogram: “This bath has become a heaven for people in love (beloved).ˮ (1002. V – 1593/94)
It can be seen from the chronogram that the hammam in the waqf spa of Novi Pazar was built in 1002 Hijri yeas, i.e. in 1593/94 A.D. Evlija Čelebija did not record this inscription, but left other data according to which the hammam, the favorite excursion site of Novi Pazar inhabitants, was commissioned by hafiz Ahmed-pasha, who was appointed Bosnian muhafiz (protector) in the same year. For a certain time in the 16th century the Spa was rented by haji-Hurem, founder of one of the oldest mosques in Novi Pazar, and therefore it is also on the list of haji-Hurem's waqfs. In 1611, the hammam was also described by French travel writer Lefevre, and in the mid-17th century by Turkish geographer haji Halfa.
Architects find analogy to the spatial solution of the waqf spa of Novi Pazar in the hammam of Constantinople, built upon the order of Mihrimah, a daughter of Suleiman the Lawgive,r in 1548, which was built by the best-known Turkish architect Mimar Sinan.
The old waqf spa of Novi Pazar is one of the oldest in the Balkans. Healing waters of this spa were used even by ancient Romans, who were the first to discover its mineral springs. This fact is supported by remains of thermal baths, which testify that they enjoyed in boons of the warm and healing water. The first hammam (Turkish bath) dates back to the 15th century. In the mid-17th century Turks furbished the Spa, and it was reputed to be an “excellent hot spa”. Experts classify the water of the spa as acid-sulfate thermal water, the temperature of which at the spring reaches as much as 52°C. The water also contains considerable amounts of hydrogen sulfide and traces of manganese and ammonium.
Next to the Waqf Spa, a modern hospital– a specialized hospital for treating progressive muscular and neuromuscular diseases, as well as several exclusive hotels and restaurants have been built.
When the Republic of Serbia passed the law on returning expropriated property to previous owners, the Islamic Community initiated proceedings for recovery of the Spa and other facilities which had been unlawfully expropriated by communist authorities. The law explicitly provides that waqf property, same as property of other religious communities, cannot be the subject of trading and that, consequently, it cannot be privatized. However, in practice, the Islamic Community encounters discrimination. While other religious communities successfully and almost without any obstructions recovered their property, the Islamic Community has recovered only a couple of facilities, and had difficulties doing so.
With enormous commitment and legal battle for the recovery of Waqf property, previous mufti, deceased Muamer-ef. Zukorlić managed to initiate the process of returning the expropriated property to the Islamic Community. His struggle resulted in the recovery of some important buildings in Novi Pazar, including the Waqf Spa.
At the opening of the renewed building of the hammam of Waqf Spa in 2016, academician Zukorlić stated: “This waqf is one of our symbols of culture and civilization. Spas have been a symbol in the whole Islamic civilization since they represent cleansing. And cleanliness is a symbol of Islam.” On this occasion, mufti Mevlud-ef. Dudić pointed out: “For as long as 70 years, this waqf asset was seized from the Islamic Community.” Hajro-ef. Tutić, a longtime officer of the Islamic Community, says: “I remember, when I as a young boy came to serve in the Islamic Community, there was a lot of talk about the Waqf Spa. Hafiz Abdulah once told me that hafizes used to gather in the Spa, particularly in crisis periods in the city. They would have a bath and then they would circle around the city reciting the Qur'an, to protect it from trouble. They would begin circling from the Spa, and end them there. He also said that the hafizes had special time slots when they could use the Spa. It was the reward for their engagement.”